We overship 2% at no cost to you....Why?

In order to hold cost down, we do not cut out all defects,most customers want a natural look which includes some defects. So we ship 85-90 % full length planks.

If you decide a knot area or other defect is not to your liking, and cut out say a 2" piece across the plank, that's 10 sq inches, 15 of these, 1 sq ft , so you can remove a lot with the 2% we overship.

We do our best to pull curved planks and cut them to eliminate the curve. When installing say a 10' plank, if it has a 1/16 gap in the middle-cut it..  Since this flooring is long, you nust lay it differently.We like a little adhesive under the solid floor as it really helps eliminate squeaks later.

Most installers are very familar with oak, bland, defected at factory, all short pieces. Pull from pack nail down, it all looks the same. The average oak pack is under 30" average length , with a lot under 18" long..And since it is sanded after installation who cares if its a rough and ready installation.. 

The installer MUST defect our flooring as he puts it down. They will shudder at the idea of sorting for look, since each plank is unique, if not sorted for look.. the best flooring may be in the closet!

Since you need starters on each row, you cut out defects, and you have differnt length starters. Cutting off the tongue or groove on engineered DOES NOT AFFECT the floor. Most exotic solid floors have no tongue and groove on the ends. Oak has machined ends because its cut from waste and is sooooo short.

This is not like installing a laminate floor! Our engineered is all wood,not like cliclock which has layers of moisture attracting fiberboard in the base, the clicloc is easy, but looks like a plastic floor.You will have to sort the best looking pieces out as each piece is different- you will have to defect some knots out if you wish.. it is not a sunday evening project!  If you are in a rush please buy Pergo. Sort out the best looking, determine the open focal areas, set the best aside. Start in a closet or utility room to get used to working with the flooring.

If in doubt STOP call the factory. If you are installing glue down, get used to the tack of the adhesive. The glue down must be rolled down with a 60-70# roller WHILE IT IS TACKY! If the floor can be pulled up after rolling it is either not tacky enough to roll, or the adhesive set too long before putting the flooring into it. stop and reroll untill it is firmly down.If it was too dry before rolling you have no choice but to pull it up, We have had a number of owners who change installers in mid stream to get the floor down properly.

A character floor needs a great installer-or an owner installer who will go slowly untill he gets the knack.One of our owners started out very slowly, ended up bragging he could install 500 sqft a day. His was a beautiful 3300' recovery engineered floor. He is not a professional woodworker.

Our engineered is normally glue down, but some has been installed as a floating floor by gluing the joints.. A lot of work, be sure to cleanup the surface, as you go, if you go this route.

For glue down , 1/8 sawtooth spreader for adhesive works best. Please level the slab to within 1/4" over 6' before starting. Must roll engineered with a 60-70# smooth roller to get it flat! Bostic best has been a great performing adhesive. Figure 215 sqft coverage per gallon.

Both the non toxic oil or hard urethane can be damp mop cleaned. There are additives available to add to the water on the oil finish.

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